How to Build a Garden Pond for Small Change, Part 3, The Hard Part

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A SMALL CHANGE GARDEN POND: Part 3

The Hard Part

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The next step is to begin the digging. In the books, this looks so easy. It seems every pond book author lives where the sandy soil just melts away at the touch of a shovel. Some of us live in clay and/or rocky soils. Digging a pond in these types of soils is quite a job. Besides that, you will never be able to get the perfect straight sides that illustations indicate. Don't worry. Just begin digging and be prepared, once again, to be flexible. You also have to consider any trees in the area that might have roots into your planned pond area.
There are several strategies for digging. You may want to dig a trench outlining the planned design. Or, begin in the middle and work outwards. The deepest area will be in the middle of the pond, so you might want to dig it in layers.
The general rule is moderate climates is to make the deepest area about three feet deep so fish can escape extreme cold and heat. If possible, dig even deeper. Remember, the pond will collect debris on the bottom and build-up. So, unless you want to clean the pond regularly, plan for sediments. Since I have black clay soil, I just dig until I can't stand it anymore!
Ponds should have several depths so you should plan terraces that gradually raise the bottom of the pond. Again, depending on your soil, this may be easy or very hard as in the case of black clay. But, you do need shelves for placing plants on level ground. The number of ledges will depend on the size of your pond, but a minimum of three levels should be planned (the lowest part, a ledge around it and shallows around the perimeter.
You also need to consider carefully the width of your pond. You need to decide on the type of liner you want and check to see what is available. I have found that an eight foot width is about the widest size to give you flexibility on the type of liner you will want to use. Length, within reason, is less of an issue. But, at least, check to see what types of liner are available before you begin digging.
One nice thing about pond building is that you can make mistakes when digging and fix them later. As you begin your ponding experience, be prepared to make mistakes. You can always take out more dirt or add some dirt. But, it has been my experience that you can work around mistakes with a little creativity.
You may also want to plan a marsh area for your pond. This is a shallow area with a dam separating it from the rest of the pond. The marsh will have soil in the bottom for plants, and the dam prevents the soil from getting into the main pond. The dam should be low enough, however, to let water into the marsh.
One thing the books never tell you is what the heck to do with all the dirt you remove to make the pond. On my first effort, I made the mistake of just kind of making a dam around the pond with the excess dirt. This made a very ugly pond. You will be happier if your pond level is a normal ground level. So, figure out where you are going to put the dirt before you get too far into the process.
Another issue to consider is what type of surface the pond liner will be lining. If you have rocks of tree roots, you should consider some protection between the liner and the earth to prevent punctures. Depending on the situation, you may want to protect a small area that is vulnerable or the whole pond. Arranging rags over a small space works while you might need old blankets if you want to pad the entire pond. Again, think creatively. Look around to see what you have that might work without spending any money before investing large sums into commercial products.

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